Behavior & Care Tips

Our Behavior and Training Position Statement

As a leader in animal welfare, Animal Friends advocates for humane training methods based on an understanding of animal behavior, focusing on kindness and respect for both animals and their guardians.

Humane training uses positive reinforcement, such as food, praise, and play, along with non-aversive tools to manage behavior. Animal Friends supports positive, evidence-based methods and opposes training that causes pain, discomfort, or anxiety through aversive techniques.

Behavior Help Resources

Dog Behavior Help

Building Strong Bonds Through Dog Training

Many times, training activities are essential for building strong, positive relationships with your dog! If you consider a dog’s natural instincts—like their love of exploring, running, fetching, and problem-solving—it’s clear that engaging in training exercises like tricks, agility, and scent work can be both enjoyable and beneficial.

At Animal Friends, we’ve developed a variety of training resources for both adopted and owned dogs and their families. Whether you're working on basic manners or advanced skills, these materials are designed to help strengthen the bond between you and your dog while promoting good behavior and mental stimulation.

Dog Training Classes

Enrichment Ideas for Dogs

Dog Behavior Tips

Basic Skills

Training your dog helps them become a well-behaved canine companion. A dog that knows what’s expected is happier and enjoys a stronger bond with their people. Here are some basic skills to teach your dog and set clear expectations.

Positive Reinforcement

Positive Reinforcement: What is it, and how do you use it?

Most people prefer praise over punishment, and dogs are no different! Positive reinforcement is based on this principle—when dogs have a positive experience, they're more likely to repeat the behavior. Rewarding your dog with things they enjoy, like food or toys, helps reinforce good behavior and strengthens your bond. Older training methods focused on punishment, which could make dogs avoid training or even their owners.

Using positive reinforcement makes training enjoyable for both you and your dog. Each reward encourages your dog to repeat the desired behavior, while also showing them what pleases you. It’s a win-win!

A lure is helpful for teaching new tasks, overcoming fear, or gaining your dog's focus. It can guide a dog through uncertainty or help them engage with unfamiliar objects or situations. A lure is presented before the desired behavior to assist or encourage the action.

A reward is a way to show appreciation after the right behavior. This can range from a simple pat to an excited dance or a treat shower. Rewards should always be unexpected and follow the behavior you want to reinforce.

Choose rewards that your dog loves. Food is often the easiest and most effective, but toys, praise, and petting also work well. If your dog isn't motivated by food, try experimenting with different types of treats, like deli meats or cheese, or even use part of their regular kibble as a reward.

Teach Your Dog to Go to Mat

Objective:

Teach your dog to go to and stay on a specific spot, like a portable mat.

Instructions:

Prepare the Mat: Get a towel, flat dog bed, or mat (avoid fluffy ones) and show it to your dog while acting excited and interested in it. Place the mat on the floor near you.
Marking Initial Interest: The moment your dog shows any interest in the mat (sniffing, pawing, etc.), say “Yes!” and place a treat on the mat. Continue to reward any interaction with the mat—sniffing, pawing, or simply standing on it.
Introduce Higher-Value Treats: Once your dog is consistently engaging with the mat, start using higher-value treats (e.g., special treats) for specific behaviors, like lying down on the mat. This helps your dog learn that certain behaviors, like a “down,” earn better rewards.
Release and Marking: When your dog reliably lies down on the mat, use a release word (e.g., "Okay!" or "Free!") to let your dog leave the mat. Avoid using a recall cue, and don't treat your dog for coming off the mat. The release word marks the end of the behavior.
Repetition and Reinforcement: After your dog leaves the mat, wait for them to show interest again, then resume rewarding any interaction with the mat. Continue rewarding your dog for staying on the mat and offering behaviors.
Increase Time and Difficulty: Once your dog is staying on the mat consistently, start extending the time between rewards. If they leave the mat before you give the release cue, briefly pick it up and ignore them before giving another chance. When your dog stays, reward again.
Add Movement: As your dog gets more comfortable, begin walking around the mat. Start small and adjust based on your dog’s comfort level. After each step away, return quickly and drop a treat on the mat. This reinforces that treats come only when they're on the mat.
Name the Behavior: Once your dog is reliably staying on the mat, even with you walking around it, you can name the behavior. As you place the mat down, say your chosen cue (e.g., "Go to Mat" or "Place") and reward your dog when they go to it. Repeat this until your dog associates the cue with the action.
Free Access and Release: Leave the mat out regularly and reward your dog for choosing to lie on it. If you cue your dog to “Go to Mat,” you must be the one to release them from it. When your dog is on the mat, make sure to always drop the treat on the mat to reinforce the connection.

Important Notes:

The mat becomes the special place where rewards come directly from you, but always on the mat. Make it a "magic mat" where your dog feels rewarded and comfortable.

Time Outs

Using Time-Outs Effectively with Your Dog

Time-outs are a valuable tool for teaching your dog when a behavior is undesirable. The core idea is to remove your attention, which is often the most meaningful consequence for your dog.

Types of Time-Outs:

Withdrawal of Attention: Turn your back on the dog or step into another room, leaving the dog alone.
Isolated Time-Out: Place your dog in a crate or a quiet room and leave them alone.

Both methods are effective, depending on the situation. Time-outs should last no more than 2 minutes—start with 30 seconds. If the time-out is too long, your dog may forget what triggered it, and the consequence won’t be meaningful.

Timing is Key:

The time-out must happen immediately after the unwanted behavior. This helps your dog make the connection between the behavior and the consequence. Poor timing could accidentally punish a good behavior, like sitting. Use a marker word, such as "Too Bad" or "Oops," in a neutral, sing-song tone. Avoid sounding angry, as negative emotions can confuse your dog. Remember, even negative attention can reinforce unwanted behavior.

Consistency is Crucial:

Time-outs must be applied consistently. For example, if your dog is barking for attention, implement a time-out every time the barking happens. Inconsistent application will confuse your dog. While it may feel repetitive, the more consistent you are, the faster your dog will learn.

Common Behaviors for Time-Outs:

Barking for attention
Play biting or mouthing
Jumping on people
Excessive licking or pawing for attention
Inappropriate behavior with other dogs (remove your dog from the situation for the time-out)
Excessive, attention-seeking activity

Note on Barking:

The only time you can adjust timing is if your dog is still barking when the time-out ends. Wait for a moment of silence before releasing your dog. If the barking continues, wait for a pause, say “YES!” when your dog stops, and immediately let them out. If barking resumes, ignore it and wait for silence again. Your dog will soon learn that quiet equals release.

Reward Appropriate Behavior:

Always reward your dog heavily when they display appropriate behavior. The goal is to phase out excessive time-outs by focusing on reinforcing good behavior. Offer alternatives and reward the desired actions, helping your dog understand what you want them to do.

Time-outs are an effective way to discourage undesirable behavior, but they should always be part of a broader approach that encourages and rewards positive actions.

Dominance vs. Leadership in Dog Training

Rethinking "Dominance" in Dog Training

With the popularity of The Dog Whisperer, many dog owners are left questioning the concept of "dominance" in dog behavior. While we agree that dog behavior can be modified, we differ on the reason behind it. Is dominance truly the motivation?

For years, dominance was believed to cause many canine issues, such as house soiling, leash pulling, and not coming when called. Techniques like alpha rolls and physical corrections (e.g., choke chains, smacking, or shaking the dog) were recommended to establish dominance.

Advocates of dominance often cite the idea that dogs are pack animals, similar to wolves. However, dogs are not wolves. They evolved separately about 14,000 years ago and exhibit behaviors different from wild wolves, such as taking direction from humans. Dogs in the wild live in loose groups, not tightly structured packs.

Humans also lack the instincts and timing that dogs have, and physical corrections can be misinterpreted as threats, leading to aggression. True leadership doesn’t require force. A true leader is someone who controls resources and guides with respect, not intimidation. Dogs labeled as "dominant" are often simply untrained and acting out to get attention.

What Does Leadership Mean?

Leadership = Partnership

Being a leader means earning your dog’s trust and guiding them with confidence, fairness, and consistency. Leadership doesn’t involve physical corrections or dominance-based tactics. Most misbehaviors stem from unintentional reinforcement of unwanted behaviors.

How to Be a Good Partner:

Ignore pushy behavior: Don’t respond until your dog offers a behavior (like sitting).
Control resources: Make your dog work for things, like sitting before being fed.
Reward good behavior: Reinforce polite, calm actions and ignore demanding ones.
Prevent mistakes: Don’t leave your dog unsupervised if they have habits like chewing.
Promote manners: Let your dog wait for you to go through doors—not to assert dominance, but to teach good manners.

True partnership with your dog is about trust, respect, and consistency—not asserting dominance. Lead with confidence, and your dog will naturally look to you for guidance.

Clicker Training Can Help Your Pet

The Power of Clicker Training: A Modern Approach to Animal Training

Have you ever been amazed watching animals like dolphins, parrots, or tigers perform tricks at theme parks? It's easy to wonder, "How do they do it?" Training a dog may seem different from training a dolphin, but the principles behind it are surprisingly similar.

While you can physically direct a dog with a leash to sit or lie down, training a wild animal like a dolphin or bear requires a different approach. You can't scold these animals for mistakes, and the training needs to stay mentally stimulating to keep them engaged. That's where clicker training comes in.

Clicker training uses a distinct, conditioned sound (the click) to signal to the animal that it has performed the correct behavior. Originally used to train animals like dolphins, it’s based on the principles of Pavlov’s classical conditioning. In his famous experiment, Pavlov rang a bell before feeding dogs, eventually conditioning them to salivate at the sound of the bell, even without food. This “conditioned response” principle forms the basis of clicker training.

In modern animal training, the bell is replaced by a clicker. When a dog hears the click, it associates the sound with the specific behavior it was doing at that moment. This allows trainers to mark the exact behavior they want to reinforce, making it easier for the dog to understand what’s being rewarded.

For example, clicker training is incredibly useful for housetraining puppies. Each time they go outside, they’re clicked and rewarded. It can also teach more difficult tricks or help dogs overcome issues like aggression, as it encourages the dog to think through and problem-solve rather than relying on direct commands.

What makes clicker training so effective is that it empowers the dog to figure out what works. Instead of being directed, the dog learns by association and is praised for making the correct choice.

Clicker training can be used with all kinds of animals—dogs, cats, birds, rabbits, and even humans. In fact, clicker training is gaining popularity in classrooms and sports, helping to improve communication and motivation across many different areas.

By bridging the gap between animal and human communication, clicker training offers a positive, engaging way to teach any animal.

General Skills

Objective:

Teach your dog to come to you when called.

Instructions:

Start by having someone hold your dog while you walk a short distance away. If you're alone, work in a fenced area where your dog can’t run off.
Face slightly sideways, and use a hand signal (turn your hand toward your body and bring it toward your chest) while saying, “[Dog's Name], COME."
If your dog doesn’t come immediately, try backing away or running in the opposite direction to encourage them to follow.
When your dog moves toward you, use a marker word like "Yes!" and reward with a treat or a favorite toy.

Tips:

Never punish your dog for coming to you, even if they take longer than expected. If your dog associates coming to you with punishment, they may start to avoid it.
Avoid calling your dog to do something unpleasant, like taking medicine or putting them in a crate. If you need to do something your dog dislikes, go get them instead.
If your dog ignores the “COME” cue, change the word to something fresh (e.g., “Here” or “Front”) and start over.
Make coming to you the best thing in your dog's life! This could even save their life one day.
Don’t pull your dog toward you using the leash. Let them make the decision to come to you. Pulling can create dependency, meaning they might not come when off-leash.
Practice both on and off-leash, in various environments.
Avoid showing treats or toys when calling your dog. Instead, make rewards for coming unpredictable and exciting, so your dog is motivated to come without needing to see the reward first.

Puppies

Puppyhood is an exciting yet challenging phase. It's crucial to expose your puppy to various people, animals, and experiences while teaching them the right behaviors. Here are some tips to help your pup become a well-behaved canine citizen!

General Puppy Info

Play biting and mouthing are natural behaviors for puppies. Almost all pups nip at our hands, feet, or clothing, which is normal—even though it can be annoying! These behaviors are essential for puppies to learn how to play more gently.

Puppies primarily learn bite inhibition from their mother and littermates. When one puppy bites too hard, the other responds with a sharp yelp. If the biting continues, the bitten puppy will stop playing and walk away. This teaches the biter that too-hard biting ends the game, while softer bites allow play to continue.

Unfortunately, many puppies are separated from their mothers and littermates too early, meaning humans need to step in and teach bite inhibition. To do this, mimic the reactions the littermates would have. Let your puppy mouth your hand while you're petting them. If they bite too hard, say “OUCH!” in a high-pitched voice. If your puppy backs off or licks you, continue petting. If the puppy continues to bite, walk away for a short time-out. Repeat this process until your puppy learns to bite more gently.

So You Want a New Puppy, Now What?

Puppy Fever – Now What?

The idea of a puppy under the Christmas tree is a popular, heartwarming image, but it's important to remember that bringing a puppy into your home is a big responsibility that changes everyone's daily life.

Puppies are adorable and full of unconditional love, and adopting one can bring many benefits: they teach children responsibility, reduce allergy risks, and provide family bonding as you research breeds and make decisions together. However, raising a puppy also requires time, commitment, and resources.

Here are some important things to consider before you bring a puppy home:

Prepare Your Home
Before you get your puppy, plan a shopping trip to buy essentials like quality puppy food, bowls, a crate, leash, collar, toys, and bedding. Some of these costs, like food, will be ongoing.
Basic Care
Your puppy will need regular food, water, and bathroom breaks. You'll need to watch him closely, especially if he's not housetrained. Mistakes will happen, but patience and consistency are key. If it's winter, be prepared for cold-weather potty breaks.
Chewing and Mouthing
Puppies explore with their mouths, which can lead to chewing on furniture and toys. Provide appropriate alternatives, like Kongs, and gently discourage mouthing through positive training methods.
Veterinary Care
Puppies need initial vet visits, vaccinations, de-worming, and possibly microchipping. Ongoing costs include preventive care (heartworm, flea/tick meds) and possible unexpected medical expenses. Be sure you have the resources to care for your puppy's health long-term.
Grooming
Puppies require grooming, whether professional or home care. Keep grooming costs in mind when choosing a breed.
Exercise and Attention
Even after a long day, your puppy needs daily walks, playtime, and affection. Puppies thrive on interaction and attention, and it’s vital for their well-being.
Training and Socialization
Obedience classes are essential for building a well-behaved puppy. Use positive reinforcement and avoid harsh punishments, which can lead to anxiety and behavioral issues. Classes also provide mental stimulation and opportunities for socializing with other dogs and people.
Socialization
Expose your puppy to different people, dogs, and situations. Proper socialization helps prevent fear and anxiety later in life.

Once you’ve considered all the responsibilities and decided a puppy is right for your family, research where to adopt from. Animal Friends is a great option, but always ask questions and make sure you're ready for the commitment.

Adopting a puppy is a long-term commitment—typically 10-15 years. It’s a rewarding experience, but it requires patience and dedication. If you’re unsure, consider adopting an adult dog who may be a better fit for your family’s lifestyle.

Potty, Crate and Leash Training

Potty, crate, and leash training are key to your pet's safety and well-being. Potty training teaches where to relieve themselves, crate training provides a secure space, and leash training ensures safe, controlled outings. With positive reinforcement and consistency, you can raise a well-behaved, happy pet.

Potty Training

Housetraining Tips

Quick Tips:

Set a consistent schedule: Dogs thrive on routine. A regular feeding schedule helps predict when your dog needs to go out.
Potty breaks are for business, not play: Be efficient and let your dog do their business before any playtime.
Positive reinforcement only: Never punish your dog. Always reward when your dog goes outside.
Be patient: House training takes time, consistency, and plenty of love.

Supervising Your Dog: To help with house training, keep your dog in one of two places:

In sight inside the house – Watch for signs they need to go out.
In a crate or small area – This helps prevent accidents and keeps your dog safe when you can't supervise.

Signs Your Dog Needs to Go Out: Look for behaviors like:

Circling or sniffing the ground
Wandering or pacing
Whining or looking distracted
Going to areas where they’ve previously soiled

When you see these signs, take your dog outside immediately.

Potty Breaks Outside:

Choose a designated spot for potty breaks.
Don’t let your dog play; guide them to the spot and wait. Use a cue like “go potty.”
Once they finish, reward with praise and a treat before allowing playtime.
Always supervise to ensure they actually go potty.

Confining Your Dog: When you can't supervise, keep your dog in a crate or a dog-proof area. Dogs don’t like to potty where they sleep, so this helps prevent accidents. It also ensures you can clean up promptly if needed.

Cleaning Up Accidents: Accidents will happen, and it’s important to clean them thoroughly using an enzyme cleaner. Regular household cleaners only mask the smell for us, but enzyme cleaners eliminate odors so dogs don’t re-soil the area.

Dealing with Accidents:

Don’t scold your dog after the fact. They won’t understand, and it won’t help.
Only scold if you catch them in the act—use a loud noise to interrupt, but avoid hitting or punishing them.

How Long Will It Take? Potty training takes time. While some dogs may pick it up quickly, others may need more patience. Expect setbacks—this is normal!

Housetraining Puppies:

Puppies have small bladders and can't hold it as long as adults. A 12-week-old puppy can’t hold their bladder for 10 hours, so plan to take them out often.
If you work during the day, consider having someone let your puppy out during lunchtime.
Generally, a puppy can hold their bladder for their age in months + one hour. For example, a 4-month-old puppy can hold it for 5 hours, but this formula doesn’t apply to small breeds.

Puppy Potty Break Schedule:

Young puppies (12 weeks and younger): Take them outside every 30 minutes when they’re active.
Older puppies (up to 20 weeks): Take them out after eating, drinking, playing, waking up, or being let out of a crate.
Adult dogs: They may take a bit longer to adjust to their new home, but they typically hold their bladder longer than puppies.

With consistent supervision and positive reinforcement, your dog will learn where to go, and soon potty training will be a thing of the past!

Crate Training

Crate Training Your Dog: A Step-by-Step Guide

When done correctly, crate training can be an effective way to contain your dog both during the day and at night, as well as a helpful tool for potty training. However, if misused, it can feel like punishment to your dog. The key to successful crate training is to avoid forcing your dog into the crate and leaving him there for extended periods. Instead, focus on creating positive associations with the crate and gradually increasing the time spent inside.

Step 1: Choose the Right Crate Size

Proper fit: The crate should be large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around comfortably, and lie down.
Avoid too much space: If the crate is too large, your dog might feel comfortable enough to eliminate in one corner while still having room to lie down. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, so a crate that's too big could encourage this behavior.

Step 2: Create Positive Associations (Desensitization)

Location matters: Place the crate in a common area of your home, such as the kitchen, living room, or bedroom, where your dog feels included.
Add comfort: Put a blanket or soft bedding inside the crate to make it more inviting.
Introduce treats and toys: Place treats or toys inside and around the crate. As your dog becomes comfortable, start placing treats at the back of the crate to encourage him to go all the way in.
Meal-time association: Begin feeding your dog near the crate, then gradually start feeding him inside the crate with the door open. Eventually, you can close the door while he’s eating. When he finishes, open the crate door so he can come out.
Gradual increase: Over time, keep your dog in the crate for longer periods after he finishes eating.

Step 3: Gradually Increase Crate Time

Reinforce good behavior: Reward your dog with a toy or treat whenever he enters the crate. You can pair this with a command like “Kennel up” or “House.”
Start small: Initially, only leave your dog in the crate for short periods (5-10 minutes) while you're at home. Gradually extend the time to 30 minutes or longer.
Handling whining: If your dog whines when first left in the crate for longer durations, avoid letting him out until he calms down. Allowing him to exit while whining will reinforce the behavior and he’ll learn to continue whining to get out.

Step 4: Crating During the Day or Night

Avoid long stretches: Your dog should never be in the crate for the entire workday and night.
Mental stimulation: To keep your dog entertained, provide toys or safe chew items to prevent boredom and help him stay mentally engaged while in the crate.

By following these steps and taking the time to build positive associations, your dog will learn to see the crate as a safe, comfortable space rather than a form of punishment.

Choosing a Leash

Choosing the Right Leash for Your Dog

Walking into a pet supply store can be overwhelming with the variety of leashes available. With so many options—thick, thin, long, short, and different materials—how do you know which one to choose? Since leash laws are in place in most communities, selecting the right leash is an essential decision. Animal Friends is here to offer some helpful tips to simplify your leash-buying process.

Our Recommendation: 6-Foot Leather or Nylon Leash

At Animal Friends, we recommend a 6-foot leather or nylon leash for use at shelter events and with our resident dogs. Based on our experience, this type of leash is also ideal for home use. The leash should be 1/4 inch to 1 inch in width, depending on your dog's size, which will work for most dogs.

Leather leashes are gentle on your hands and very durable.
Nylon leashes are also tough, and while they’re not as soft on the hands as leather, they’re machine-washable, which makes them easy to clean.

A 6-foot length gives your dog some room to explore while still allowing you to maintain control of their movements. Plus, this length is easier to untangle if your dog decides to twist and twirl around.

Why Avoid Retractable Leashes

While retractable leashes are popular, Animal Friends does not recommend them for several reasons. Retractable leashes give dogs too much freedom, making it difficult to keep track of them, especially when they're 10 or 15 feet away. This distance can also make training difficult, as your dog is more likely to be distracted and less focused on you.

Moreover, retractable leashes can be a safety risk. Your dog may approach other dogs or people before you have a chance to intervene, potentially leading to unpleasant interactions. Some people are afraid of dogs, and an unleashed dog coming around the corner can be intimidating. Retractable leashes are also prone to tangling, and their bulky handles can be hard to grip, especially if you or your dog get startled.

Metal or Chain Link Leashes: Not Recommended

Another common option is the metal or chain link leash. These can be difficult to grip, and the metal can be uncomfortable to hold, especially in extreme temperatures (cold or heat). The weight of the metal can also cause injury if it hits your dog or if the leash wraps around your arm or leg while your dog pulls. Additionally, chain link leashes can rust when exposed to the elements, and a dog that likes to chew may damage their teeth on the links.

Stick with Leather or Nylon

For a reliable, durable, and comfortable option, we recommend sticking with a 6-foot leather or nylon leash. These leashes will ensure many enjoyable walks with your dog. You can find a great selection at Animal Friends’ on-site pet supply shop and boutique.

If you have any further questions about leashes or leash behavior, feel free to contact Animal Friends’ Behavior Help Line at 412.847.7070.

Common Issues

Most dog owners share similar problems with their pets, especially when they are new to a home. Here are some ideas of how to work on common behavior issues.

Jumping

Managing Jumping Behavior

Jumping is a common behavior, especially in puppies and young, excitable dogs. Dogs often jump to greet people or seek attention, but how you respond will determine how quickly you can redirect this behavior into something more acceptable. Although it may feel like a long-term effort, with consistency, your dog will learn more appropriate ways to greet and interact with you.

Greeting Jumping

Stay Calm and Avoid Using Your Hands
When your dog jumps on you, avoid pushing him away with your hands. This action can turn into a playful game for your dog and may reinforce the jumping. Instead, keep your hands still and focused on the behavior you want to see.
Use Your Body to Claim Space
Stand tall and turn your body slightly, facing away from your dog, so your back is to him. This signals that you're not engaging with the jumping. Avoid yelling or using commands like "NO," as this can excite your dog further. Wait patiently until he sits on his own, and then immediately say "YES!" and reward him with a treat.
Treats Only for Calm Behavior
Keep treats hidden and only reward your dog when he's sitting calmly. Don’t use the treat as a lure to get him to jump up again. By rewarding him for sitting, you teach your dog that sitting—rather than jumping—is the behavior that gets attention. Over time, your dog will learn to default to sitting in situations where he’s unsure, and you can reinforce this by saying “SIT” when he begins to jump.
Guest Etiquette
Keep a bowl of treats by the door when expecting visitors. Let your guests know that you’re working on training your dog to greet politely, and ask for their help. Encourage them not to interact with your dog while he’s jumping. Many people unknowingly reinforce jumping by petting the dog when he’s excited. Instead, guests should only give attention and treats when the dog is calm and seated. If you have guests who may not follow this, or if service people are in your home, consider putting your dog in another room to avoid inconsistency.
Leash Training for Jumping
You can also practice jumping control by using a leash. Either tether your dog or have someone hold onto the leash while you approach. If your dog jumps, immediately stop moving. Only resume walking towards him once he has all four paws on the ground or is sitting. If he jumps again, stop and repeat the process. Reward calm behavior with treats and praise to reinforce the positive behavior.

With consistency and patience, your dog will learn that calm behavior leads to rewards, and jumping will become a thing of the past!

Barking

Managing Excessive Barking

Barking is a natural form of communication for dogs, but excessive barking can become a problem, especially when it interrupts daily activities or disturbs the neighbors. Understanding why your dog is barking is key to resolving the issue. Whether it's for attention, boredom, or territorial reasons, there are various strategies you can use to manage your dog’s barking behavior.

Common Causes of Barking & How to Address Them:

Boredom Barking
Dogs left alone for long periods without stimulation can bark simply out of boredom. These dogs may not bark at anything specific but will continue until given attention or something to do.

How to Resolve It:
- Interactive Toys: Give your dog toys like a Kong filled with treats or peanut butter to keep him occupied.
- Exercise: Ensure your dog gets plenty of physical exercise, such as daily walks (15-30 minutes) and playtime. Consider doggie daycare or visits to the dog park to burn off excess energy.
- Training: Enroll in behavior classes to stimulate your dog’s mind and create a structured routine, which can reduce the need for attention-seeking behavior.
Demand Barking
This type of barking happens when your dog wants something from you, such as food or attention. For example, your dog might bark while you're eating, hoping to get a share of your meal.

How to Resolve It:
- Ignore the Barking: Do not give in to the demand. Wait for the barking to stop, and then reward your dog for being quiet (but not with the food he wanted!).
- Time-outs: Place your dog in another room until he calms down. See the handout on time-outs for more details.
Protective Barking
Dogs may bark to protect their territory, especially when they sense someone approaching their home. Their body language may also become more tense or aggressive.

How to Resolve It:
- Positive Associations: Help your dog associate visitors with positive experiences. Ring the doorbell and immediately give him a treat. Gradually train him to sit and stay calmly while the doorbell rings.
- Behavior Skills: Reward your dog for remaining quiet or calm when people enter the house. Teach him that good things happen when guests arrive.
- Guest Participation: Have guests offer your dog treats or toys as they enter, so your dog learns to associate visitors with rewards.
Fearful Barking
Fearful barking occurs when dogs react to things that frighten them, such as thunderstorms, loud noises, or unfamiliar environments. This barking is often accompanied by submissive body language, like pinned-back ears or a tucked tail.

How to Resolve It:
- Desensitize with Positive Reinforcement: Help your dog realize that the scary situation is not dangerous. Use calm, reassuring body language and offer treats or toys during these times.
- Avoid Coddling: Don’t overly comfort or fuss over your dog during fear-inducing events, as it may reinforce their fear.
- Safe Space: Create a secure environment, such as a windowless room, where your dog can feel safe and away from the source of fear.
Separation Anxiety Barking
Dogs with separation anxiety often bark or whine when left alone. This type of barking can be persistent and may occur even after you leave or during the day when you are not around.

How to Resolve It:
- Desensitize Departures: Help your dog understand that your leaving isn’t a traumatic event. Give him distractions, such as interactive toys or a favorite item that smells like you (e.g., an old shirt).
- Practice Short Absences: Start by leaving your dog alone for short periods and gradually increase the time you’re gone. This will help him get used to being alone.
- Calm Departures & Returns: Avoid making a big fuss when leaving or returning. Ignore your dog for a few minutes when you return and acknowledge him calmly, without over-stimulating him.

By identifying the cause of your dog's barking and applying the appropriate techniques, you can reduce the barking and help your dog feel more comfortable and calm in various situations. Always remember to use positive reinforcement and be consistent in your training efforts.

Digging

Managing Your Dog's Digging Habit: Dig This!

Why do dogs dig? The reasons can vary, and sometimes it’s a mystery! Dogs may dig to cool off in hot weather, simply for fun, or as part of their breed’s natural instincts. Some dig because they’re bored and looking for something to do, while others might dig in pursuit of small animals like moles. Regardless of the reason, it's important to understand that dogs don’t dig out of spite or to upset you—they’re just following their instincts.

At Animal Friends, we’ve learned that punishment is not an effective way to stop digging. While you might temporarily discourage your dog from digging in one spot, they will often find another location to dig. Digging is deeply ingrained in many dogs, and no amount of punishment will eliminate this instinct.

A better approach is to redirect your dog’s digging to a designated area where it’s acceptable. By providing an appropriate outlet for this behavior, you can reduce unwanted digging.

How to Redirect Digging

Choose a Digging Spot:
Select a location in your yard where digging is acceptable. It could be near the trash cans or in a corner behind some bushes. Make it inviting by adding some topsoil and burying treats or toys.
Encourage Digging in the Right Spot:
Lead your dog to the designated digging area, and when they start digging, praise them enthusiastically. If you catch them digging elsewhere, gently redirect them to the approved spot. Be careful not to use harsh corrections—this could cause fear and anxiety.
Supervise:
Dogs left alone in an empty yard may start digging out of boredom. It’s crucial to supervise your dog during outdoor time to make the connection between digging and the designated spot. This may take time, so patience is key.
Provide Adequate Exercise:
A dog with excess energy is more likely to dig. To prevent this, ensure your dog gets plenty of exercise:
- Take at least one long walk daily (15-30 minutes, depending on your dog), ideally two walks.
- Provide a fenced-in yard.
- Consider doggy daycare to keep your dog active.
- Visit the dog park or play games like frisbee to keep your dog engaged.

Additional Tips for Specific Types of Digging

The Shelter-Seeking Digger:
If your dog digs to create shelter from heat or cold, provide an insulated outdoor dog shelter or a weather-resistant bed on a deck. Reward your dog for using the shelter, so they’re less likely to dig for a cool, shaded spot.
The Attention-Seeking Digger:
If your dog digs to get your attention, it’s important not to reinforce the behavior by giving them attention—whether positive or negative. Simply ignore the digging, and reward your dog when they stop. Make sure you're spending enough quality time with your dog to prevent them from seeking attention through destructive behaviors.
The Escape Digger:
Some dogs dig along fences to escape. To prevent this, you can bury chicken wire beneath the fence, place large rocks along the perimeter, or ensure the fence extends at least two feet below ground.
The Prey-Chasing Digger:
If your dog is digging to catch rodents or insects, limit their access to the area or work on eliminating pests from your yard. Always use pet-safe products when dealing with wildlife or pests.

Final Thoughts

Remember, always use positive reinforcement when managing digging behavior. Punishing a dog for digging can create fear, anxiety, and lead to other behavioral issues. By providing an acceptable digging outlet, ensuring sufficient exercise, and giving your dog attention and structure, you can effectively manage their digging habit in a way that keeps everyone happy.

Chewing

Tips for Managing Your Dog's Chewing Habit

Inappropriate chewing is usually a result of boredom or simply a lack of proper training. The key to curbing destructive chewing is to provide your dog with a stimulating environment and plenty of appropriate chew toys. This will help prevent your dog from gnawing on things like furniture or your favorite shoes.

Instead of punishing your dog for chewing the wrong items, focus on redirecting their attention to acceptable chew toys and rewarding them for chewing the right things. Here are some steps to guide you:

Step 1: Remove or Restrict Access to Inappropriate Items

Start by removing or limiting your dog’s access to items they tend to chew on, such as furniture, shoes, or personal belongings. While it might not always be possible to remove certain objects (like the couch), limiting their access in the early stages of training is crucial.

Step 2: Introduce Appropriate Chew Toys

Help your dog understand which items are acceptable to chew by offering tough, rubber, indestructible, and hollow toys, such as Kongs. To make these toys more appealing, stuff them with food like kibble, liver paste, or peanut butter. This turns the toy into a rewarding activity that requires effort to enjoy. In the beginning, consider feeding all of your dog’s meals in or around these toys to create strong positive associations.

Step 3: Teach Your Dog to Bring the Chew Toy to You

Encourage your dog to bring their chew toys to you by rewarding them whenever they do so. This reinforces the idea that the chew toy is a source of rewards. Be patient, as building these positive associations may take some time—weeks or even months, depending on your dog’s personality and behavior.

Step 4: Rotate Chew Toys

Provide a variety of different rubber toys and rotate them regularly to keep things fresh and interesting for your dog. Just like humans, dogs can get bored with the same toys if they aren’t changed up often enough.

Step 5: Ensure Your Dog Gets Enough Exercise

If your dog is still chewing on inappropriate objects, it may be a sign that they’re not getting enough physical or mental stimulation. A bored dog with pent-up energy is more likely to engage in destructive behaviors.

Here are some ways to provide more exercise:

Take at least one long walk each day (15-30 minutes, depending on your dog). Ideally, two walks per day with potty breaks in between are best.
Ensure your dog has access to a fenced-in yard to run and play.
Consider doggy daycare to keep your dog engaged during the day.
Visit a dog park for playtime with other dogs.
Play games like frisbee to burn off energy.
Enroll in a behavior training class to strengthen the bond between you and your dog, build confidence, and improve your dog's overall behavior.

Final Tip: Positive Reinforcement is Key!

Always use positive reinforcement techniques when training your dog. Never punish your dog for chewing or other destructive behaviors. Punishment can lead to fear, anxiety, and other behavioral issues. Focus on rewarding good behavior, and with patience and consistency, your dog will learn to chew on the right things.

Marking

Urine Marking in Cats and Dogs

Sometimes pets may soil in the house not because they are untrained, but because they feel the need to claim their territory. Changes in the environment, such as new people, animals, or smells, can trigger this behavior. Rest assured, your pet isn't marking out of spite (for example, not because they dislike your grandmother), but rather to assert their presence in the area.

Your pet may be marking if:

The amount of urine is small.
They mark horizontal surfaces.
They are not spayed or neutered.
Other pets in the household are also unaltered.
There is conflict or tension between animals in the home.
They frequently urinate during walks.

How to Address It:

Spay and Neuter all animals in the household. Intact animals are more likely to mark their territory, but even altered pets may mark if there are intact animals present.
Clean marked areas thoroughly. Pets often return to mark the same spots, so it’s important to eliminate any lingering scent. Avoid using harsh chemicals, as this can trigger your pet to over-mark the area.
Limit access to new or potentially tempting areas. For example, keep guests' belongings, like shoes or bags, out of reach to prevent your pet from marking them.
Address conflicts between pets using positive reinforcement and, if necessary, seek help from a trainer. You can reach out to Animal Friends for obedience classes or visit www.apdt.com to find a trainer near you.
Never punish your pet after they mark. Pets won't understand why they are being punished for a natural behavior. The goal is to interrupt the marking before it happens and redirect them, rather than punish afterward.
Praise good behavior. Always reward your pet when they use their litter box (cats) or go outside to potty (dogs).

Why Do Pets Mark?

Urine marking can occur due to anxiety or stress. If your pet is showing signs of stress or nervous marking, it's a good idea to consult with your veterinarian for options to address the anxiety. Keep in mind that unaltered pets are more prone to anxiety-driven behaviors, so spaying or neutering may help. In some cases, behavior modification with the help of a trainer can also help reduce anxious marking. Additionally, playing calming music or using anxiety-reducing aromatherapy sprays (such as Feliway for cats) can also be helpful.

For more information on solving litter box issues, see our handout on cat behavior.

Mouthiness

Mouthiness in Dogs
Mouthiness is when a dog places their open mouth on a person, typically as a form of play, attention-seeking, or due to over-stimulation. It’s important to note that mouthing is not aggression, but a behavior related to bite inhibition—a skill puppies learn early on during play with their littermates and from their mother. Teaching bite inhibition is crucial, as it helps dogs understand appropriate ways to use their mouths.

Types of Mouthing Behavior:

Playful mouthing: The dog views mouthing as part of play.
Demanding mouthing: The dog mouths to get attention.
Over-stimulated mouthing: Occurs when a dog is frustrated or aroused, leading to increased mouthing.

How to Reduce Mouthing:

Don’t reinforce the behavior: Ignore your dog when mouthing. Don’t respond with play or attention. When your dog calms down, reward with praise or a treat.
Effective time-outs: If mouthing persists, use time-outs by placing your dog in a quiet space until calm.
Make an aversive sound: Replicate a puppy’s high-pitched squeal with a sound like “EEE, IE, IE” to signal when mouthing is too hard. Reward your dog when they disengage.
Trade behavior: Replace your hand with a toy to teach your dog that your body parts are not toys. Avoid pulling away, as this may encourage harder mouthing. Gently push your arm into the dog’s mouth to create slight discomfort, prompting them to let go.
Basic manners training: Teach essential commands like "Sit," "Stay," and "Down" to help manage mouthing. When your dog mouths, have them sit to calm down, then reward them for good behavior.

Always use positive reinforcement to encourage good behavior. Avoid punishment, as it can lead to fear and anxiety. For more details, see our sheets on Positive Reinforcement and Effective Time-Outs.

The First Three Days, Weeks, and Months with Your New Dog

Multiple Animal Households

Having multiple pets is a lot of fun and a great way for your animals to socialize. However, it can be exhausting and difficult as well. There are different issues and needs that dogs have when they are around other pets. Here are some ideas on how to introduce your pet to new friends in a safe way.

Introducing Your New Dog to Your Dog

Introducing Your New Dog to Your Resident Dog

Bringing a new dog into a household with an existing dog can be a rewarding experience, offering additional companionship, exercise, and joy. However, it’s important to introduce them carefully and gradually to ensure a smooth transition. Here are some tips to help you get started on the right paw:

Remove Potential Rivalry Triggers: Before bringing your new dog home, make sure to provide each dog with their own food dish, bed, crate, and toys. To avoid conflict, remove any shared items like bones, food bowls, and toys until you're certain they can safely share. Only bring out toys and bones under supervision initially.
Start with a Neutral Meeting: When introducing the dogs, take them to a neutral space—like a park or for a walk—away from home. This allows them to meet in an unfamiliar area, making the encounter less territorial and more relaxed.
Contain the New Dog Inside: When you bring the new dog home, keep them contained and prevent them from freely exploring the house. This helps prevent your new dog from "claiming" space and setting bad habits right away.
Provide a Separate Space for the New Dog: Never crate or confine the two dogs together. Until you're sure they’re getting along, keep your new dog in a separate crate or area, and don’t leave them alone unsupervised.
Keep the New Dog on a Leash: When indoors, keep your new dog on a leash for better control. This helps prevent bad habits from forming and allows the new dog to learn house rules. It also gives your resident dog a break from any overly exuberant behavior from the newcomer.
Separate Feeding: Feed your new dog separately from the resident dog to avoid food-related aggression. Food is a high-value resource, and many conflicts can arise when one dog approaches the other’s food bowl.
Expect Occasional Squabbles: Just like siblings, dogs may have occasional disagreements. If your dogs have a spat, don't panic unless there’s injury. It’s natural for a resident dog to correct the new dog if they’re overstepping boundaries. Just make sure the corrections don’t escalate into aggression—time-outs work well as a consequence.
Supervise Resting Areas: Older dogs, in particular, may not appreciate younger dogs invading their quiet time. Be mindful of their resting spaces and ensure they have their own areas to retreat to.
Keep the Mood Positive: Use a cheerful, encouraging tone when your dogs are interacting well. If things get out of hand, use a calm, firm voice to interrupt the behavior. Keep play sessions short to avoid overstimulation or fatigue, which can lead to aggression.
Let the Dogs Establish Hierarchy: Don't rush to assume that the resident dog should always be the "alpha." Alternate who gets fed first or let one dog go outside before the other. Let them naturally figure out their dynamic over time.
Spend Quality Time with Each Dog: Be sure to spend one-on-one time with each dog every day. This helps strengthen your bond with both dogs and ensures neither feels neglected.
Patience is Key: Developing a positive relationship between your dogs won’t happen overnight. Be patient, observe their interactions closely, and intervene when necessary. With time and proper supervision, your dogs will likely form a healthy, harmonious bond.

Benefits of Having 2 Dogs

The Joys and Responsibilities of Adopting Two Dogs

Adopting a dog can be one of life’s greatest blessings. But imagine how much richer that experience could be if you brought home two dogs instead of one!

At Animal Friends, our staff works tirelessly to match each animal with a loving "forever home." While many dogs thrive in single-pet households, some truly flourish with a canine companion by their side. In fact, many vets believe dogs in multi-dog homes tend to be healthier, thanks to more opportunities for exercise and play.

The benefits of adopting two dogs are numerous. If you're away from home during the day, having two dogs allows them to keep each other company. Dogs that share attention and time often become more relaxed and easygoing. Families with multiple dogs frequently find that their pets are happier, more affectionate, and form deeper bonds with one another. The dynamics of observing your dogs interact can also help you better understand their behavior. Many families find that once they have two dogs, they never go back to a one-dog home. Two dogs bring double the joy, love, and entertainment!

Adopting two dogs also helps address a significant need. The Humane Society of the United States reports that six to eight million dogs and cats enter shelters each year, with about half of them being euthanized. If more families opened their hearts to two dogs, shelters would be able to do even more to save lives.

Of course, adopting a dog (or two) is a big decision and requires careful consideration. If you’re thinking about bringing a second dog into your home, proper planning is essential.

First, make sure both dogs are spayed or neutered to prevent unwanted pregnancies and reduce the likelihood of aggression. You’ll also need to consider the financial aspects—food, vet bills, toys, and other pet care costs will double when you have two dogs. Additionally, you’ll need to invest more time in your dogs, making sure each gets individual attention and bonding time.

Compatibility is another key factor in a multi-dog household. Many dogs do best with a companion of the opposite sex, and some dogs may need to be separated at meal times to prevent food-related disputes. It’s also important to remember that two dogs can sometimes get into mischief together, which may not happen with just one!

Before adopting a second dog, ask yourself why you want to expand your family. A second dog isn’t a replacement for human companionship or a quick fix for behavioral issues in your current dog. If you’re unsure, consider pet-sitting or taking your dog to a park to see how they interact with other dogs.

Ultimately, adding a second dog to your home requires a commitment of time, money, and attention. But if you’re ready for the extra responsibility, you’ll quickly discover that having two dogs is “twice as nice” as having just one!

Introducing Your Dog and Cat

Introducing a Cat to Your Dog

This guide will help you introduce a new cat or dog to your home, ensuring a smooth and safe transition for all pets involved. Before bringing a new pet into your home, it's important to consider your dog's prey drive, especially with certain breeds (e.g., hounds, pit bulls, beagles, Jack Russells) that may have a higher instinct to chase smaller animals. If your dog has a history of killing small animals, it may not be safe to bring a new cat into your home.

Step 1: Keep the Animals Separate

Initially, keep the new cat in a separate room with its own bed, food, and litter box.
Close the door and use a baby gate if possible, as some dogs may be able to open doors.

Step 2: Work on Basic Manners Skills with Your Dog

It's essential to have control over your dog during the introduction.
Work on skills like "Sit," "Stay," "Come," and "Down" to ensure your dog listens and remains calm.

Step 3: Create Positive Associations Between the Two Animals

Introduce your dog to the cat's scent by giving your dog the cat's blanket, and associate it with positive experiences, like feeding him near the scent.
Similarly, give your cat your dog’s blanket to help form positive associations with your dog's scent.
Begin feeding your pets on opposite sides of the door or baby gate to encourage positive associations between each other's presence and mealtime.

Step 4: Controlled Introduction

After both pets have become accustomed to each other's scent, you can begin a controlled meeting.
Keep your dog on a leash and have him either sit or lie down. Another person should bring the cat into the room.
Maintain your dog’s focus on you, preventing him from staring at or lunging at the cat.
Keep the first few meetings short (3-5 minutes) and reward both pets for calm behavior.
Be patient if either pet shows signs of fear or stress—take a step back and return to Step 3 to reinforce positive associations if needed.
Remember, introductions can take days or even months, depending on the animals’ comfort levels. A slow introduction can make a huge difference in ensuring both pets feel safe.

Step 5: Gradual Roaming for the Cat

Once your dog and cat are comfortable with each other, you can allow your cat to roam while your dog remains on a leash.
Keep the interactions short at first, and reward your dog for calm behavior.
If necessary, go back to previous steps and take things slower if either pet shows fear or aggression.

Step 6: Supervise All Interactions

Continue to supervise all interactions, keeping your dog on a leash while the cat is free-roaming.
Do not leave your cat and dog unsupervised until you are completely confident they can coexist safely.
Reward your dog for calm behavior when the cat is nearby.
It's natural for cats to give corrective behavior (e.g., swiping or hissing) if the dog gets too pushy. Allow the dog to back off in response and don’t punish the cat for these actions.

Step 7: Precautions

Dogs love cat food and cat feces, which are high in protein. Keep your cat’s food and litter box out of your dog’s reach, using baby gates or placing them in areas that are inaccessible to your dog.
If your dog is eating from the litter box, don’t punish him—just move the litter box to a safer location.
Avoid “booby-trapping” the litter box, as this could deter the cat from using it properly and create more problems.

By following these steps, you can help ensure a smooth and positive introduction between your new cat and your dog, leading to a harmonious household for everyone involved!

Using Positive Reinforcement Training to Manage a Multiple Dog Household

Related Reading

Tips for New or Expectant Parents

If you have questions about introducing your pet to your new baby, register for the next session of Baby Ready Pets through Animal Friends University.

Cat Behavior Help

Cats Can Be Trained Too!

Training activities are often essential for building strong, positive relationships with your feline family member! Given a cat’s natural curiosity and their love of climbing, jumping, exploring, and chasing, it’s easy to see how activities like cat agility and other forms of training can be a perfect fit.

At Animal Friends, we’ve created training resources to support both pet and stray cats, helping to strengthen the bond between cats and their families.

Cat Training Classes

Enrichment Ideas for Cats

Cat Behavior Help Tips

Tips For Getting Your Cat To Use A Litter Box

The Litterbox Chronicles: Essential Tips for a Happy Cat and a Clean Home

Litterboxes are a crucial part of every cat’s life, and a clean, well-maintained box can make all the difference in your cat’s happiness. From location to cleanliness, size to material, there are several factors that can make your cat’s litterbox experience more comfortable. Here’s a breakdown of common litterbox-related concerns and helpful solutions to ensure both you and your cat are living in harmony.

Litterbox Location: Finding the Right Spot

When it comes to a litterbox, the location is key. Cats need a spot that meets their basic needs, so choosing the right place is just as important as picking the perfect house. Here’s what to consider when deciding where to place the box:

Convenience: The litterbox should be easily accessible. No cat wants to trek across the entire house for a bathroom break.
Safety: Make sure the area is safe, with a clear entrance and exit. This is particularly important if there are other pets or children around who might trap your cat in the box.
Privacy: Cats value privacy, so a quiet, private spot away from high-traffic areas is best. Avoid placing the box near loud appliances like washing machines or heating vents.
Space: The box should be in a spacious area. Ideally, it should be at least 6 feet away from your cat’s food and water dishes to avoid any unpleasant associations.

By taking these factors into account, you can create an environment where your cat feels comfortable and secure when using the litterbox.

The Importance of Cleanliness: Why Daily Scooping Matters

No cat wants to use a dirty litterbox. If your cat has stopped using the box or seems hesitant, it could be due to cleanliness. Litterbox maintenance is essential for your cat’s comfort and health. A few key points to keep in mind:

Daily Scooping: Cats are fastidious creatures. A dirty litterbox can lead to refusal to use it. Scoop out waste at least once a day to keep the box fresh and inviting.
Weekly Cleaning: Empty the box completely and scrub it down with warm water and mild soap at least once a week. This helps prevent odor buildup and keeps everything sanitary.
The Right Amount of Litter: Make sure there’s enough litter in the box for your cat to dig and bury waste. Too little litter can make the box uncomfortable, while too much can lead to messes outside the box.

Maintaining a clean litterbox isn’t just about hygiene—it’s about making sure your cat feels comfortable using it. Cats are creatures of habit, and a clean box encourages healthy litterbox behavior.

Size Matters: Finding the Right Box for Your Cat

Litterbox size is another important factor in ensuring your cat’s comfort. Cats come in all shapes and sizes, so there’s no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to litterboxes. Here’s how to find the best option for your cat:

Small Cats: If you have a smaller cat, a standard-size litterbox might work perfectly. However, larger breeds will need something roomier.
Large Cats: Big cats, such as Maine Coons or other large breeds, will need a larger box. They should have enough space to stand up, turn around, and dig comfortably without feeling cramped.
Older Cats: Cats with arthritis or mobility issues may need a low-sided box for easier access. For more active cats, high-sided boxes may be necessary to keep litter contained.
Multiple Cats: If you have more than one cat, it’s recommended to have one litterbox per cat, plus an extra in case of emergencies. This prevents long waits and reduces the likelihood of accidents.

Choosing the right size is essential for your cat’s physical comfort. Make sure the box allows them enough room to move freely.

Litter Materials: Choosing the Right Texture

The type of litter you use can also impact your cat’s willingness to use the box. Cats generally prefer soft, natural textures, so it’s important to select a litter that feels comfortable and familiar. Here are some popular options:

Clay-Based Litter: This is one of the most common choices. Clumping clay litter is easy to scoop and helps absorb odors, making it a popular option for many cat owners.
Clumping vs. Non-Clumping: Some cats prefer non-clumping litter, while others love the clumping variety that helps trap waste and odors. It’s a good idea to try both to see which one your cat prefers.
Natural Litter: There are also eco-friendly options made from materials like corn, wheat, or recycled paper. These can be a good choice if you’re looking for a more environmentally conscious option.
Gravel or Pellets: While some cats tolerate gravel or larger pellets, many find them uncomfortable. Soft, sand-like textures are usually preferred, as they mimic the feel of natural soil.

If your cat has recently transitioned from outdoor life, they may prefer a softer, sand-like litter. You might want to try different types to see which one your cat likes best.

Dealing with Litterbox Refusals

If your cat suddenly refuses to use their litterbox, it could be due to cleanliness, location, or even health issues. Here’s what you can do:

Check the Box: Is the box clean? Does it have enough litter? Cats will often stop using their box if it’s too dirty or uncomfortable.
Try a New Location: If the box is in a high-traffic or noisy area, move it to a quieter, more private spot.
Health Check: If your cat continues to avoid the box, it might be worth a trip to the vet. Sometimes, changes in behavior can be linked to urinary tract infections or other health issues.

Make sure to address any issues quickly to prevent litterbox aversion from becoming a long-term problem.

Multiple Cats, Multiple Boxes: Avoiding Litterbox Conflicts

If you have more than one cat, you may run into issues with competition for litterbox space. Cats can be territorial, and if a box is occupied, they might refuse to wait their turn or use an inappropriate spot. Here’s how to handle it:

One Box Per Cat: As a general rule, it’s a good idea to have one litterbox per cat, plus an extra. This ensures that every cat has a clean, private space.
Multiple Locations: Spread out the boxes around your home to give each cat easy access without having to compete.
Monitor for Stress: If your cats are fighting over the litterbox, it could be a sign of stress or anxiety. In such cases, try providing more vertical spaces (like cat trees) to reduce tension.

A little extra effort in providing enough litterboxes can save you from future problems with your cats’ bathroom habits.

A clean, well-placed litterbox is a small change that can make a huge difference in your cat’s life. By choosing the right size, type of litter, and location, you can ensure that your feline friend has a pleasant and comfortable bathroom experience. After all, a happy cat equals a happy home!

Solving Litterbox Issues

How to Solve Litter Box Problems

Has your cat started having accidents outside the litter box? Feeling frustrated? Take a deep breath—you’re not alone, and this is usually fixable.

Cats are naturally inclined to use their litter boxes, so if they stop, it’s a clear sign that something’s not quite right. Whether it’s a health issue, a dirty box, or stress from a change in their environment, the root cause needs to be addressed.

Here’s a guide to help you solve the issue without escalating the problem:

Important Reminder: Never punish your cat! Cats don’t respond well to negative reinforcement, and scaring them can only worsen the situation.

Steps to Resolve Litter Box Issues:

Consult Your Veterinarian
The first step is to rule out any medical issues. Conditions like urinary tract infections or kidney disease can cause discomfort while using the litter box, leading to accidents outside it. A visit to the vet will help identify if health problems are the cause.
The One-Box-Per-Cat Rule
The rule of thumb is one litter box per cat, plus one extra. If you have two cats, you should have three boxes. For five cats, you’ll need six boxes. This gives your cats plenty of options to avoid territorial conflicts.
Keep Litter Boxes Clean
Scoop your cat’s litter box several times a day. If you’re using clay litter, change it completely and clean the box weekly. With scoopable litter, clean it thoroughly once a month.
Consider Changing the Type of Litter
Cats can be picky about their litter. Try experimenting with different types, such as clay, scoopable, wheat-based, or recycled paper, to see which one your cat prefers.
Evaluate the Litter Box Lid
If you’re using a covered litter box, try removing the lid. Covered boxes can trap odors and make some cats feel claustrophobic. Cats often prefer an open box where they can quickly escape if needed.
Replace the Litter Box
Over time, litter boxes can develop lingering odors, even after cleaning. Consider replacing the box once a year, as scratches in the plastic can retain smells that your cat finds unpleasant.
Add More Litter Boxes
If your cat is avoiding a particular box, try placing additional boxes in different areas of your home. A noisy or high-traffic area might be unappealing to your cat. Providing options in various rooms or on multiple levels can help.
Isolate the Cat if Necessary
If your cat is having frequent accidents, isolate them to a smaller area with a litter box and food/water. However, remember that isolation alone won’t fix the behavior—make sure to address the underlying cause.
Place Litter Boxes in Problem Areas
If your cat is urinating in specific spots, place a litter box in those areas to encourage use. This helps them associate the correct place with elimination.
Clean Thoroughly
Use a cleaning product specifically designed for removing cat urine. Cats have a keen sense of smell and may return to areas that still carry their scent.
Seek Further Help
Consider reading Patricia McConnell’s booklet The Fastidious Feline, which offers helpful tips on resolving litter box problems. It’s available on Amazon.com.
Take a Class
Animal Friends University often offers classes on litter box issues, like "Litterbox Problems: How to Prevent and Treat." Visit www.ThinkingOutsideTheCage.org for the latest schedule.

Solving litter box issues requires patience, consistency, and a lot of love for your feline friend. With the right approach, your cat will soon be back on track, and you’ll both be happier for it!

Kitten-Proofing Your Home

How To Kitten Proof Your House

Before bringing a new kitten into your home, it's important to "kitten-proof" your living space. Kittens are naturally curious and explore their surroundings through their senses, often chewing, batting, climbing, and rubbing against objects. This exploration helps them develop their motor skills, hunting instincts, and marking behaviors. As a result, your kitten will likely investigate everything, and some things may end up in her mouth or be knocked over in the process.

To make your home safer for your curious little one, here are some tips to kitten-proof your space:

1. Plants
Remove any toxic plants from your home, as even non-toxic plants can attract your kitten's attention. Keep vines out of reach, and if your kitten is tempted to chew on non-toxic plants, you can spray them with a pet-safe deterrent like Bitter Apple. (For a list of toxic plants, visit www.ThinkingOutsideTheCage.org or check out our "Adoption 101" page.)

2. Outlets, Wires, and Cords
Cover electrical outlets to prevent curious paws from exploring them. Protect cords by either covering them or using Bitter Apple or Tabasco to discourage chewing. Be sure to keep blind or curtain cords out of reach, as they can be dangerous if dangled.

3. Household Chemicals
Keep all household chemicals—such as mothballs, detergents, medications, and cleaning products—locked away in cabinets or closets to prevent access.

4. Open Waste Cans
Secure or cover all waste bins, especially in the bathroom, where kittens may be tempted to investigate discarded items like floss or razors.

5. Small Objects
Pick up any small items that could be swallowed, such as jewelry, small toys, and hardware. Kittens are notorious for batting things around, so keep these items out of reach to prevent choking hazards.

6. Windows
Ensure that window screens are tightly secured and never leave windows open without them. Kittens are quick and curious, and they may try to explore out of an open window if they can.

7. Open Doors and Drawers
Always keep drawers, doors, and lids closed to prevent your kitten from getting trapped. Kittens are incredibly agile and can find their way into surprising places, such as the fridge, dryer, oven, or bathroom cabinets.

8. Rubber Bands, String, and Other Small Items
Store rubber bands, string, yarn, twist ties, ribbons, and balloons out of reach. These items can be a choking hazard or lead to intestinal blockages if swallowed. Kittens may inadvertently swallow small objects while playing, so it's essential to keep these things out of sight.

9. Balconies
Kittens have no concept of height, so balconies are extremely dangerous. Avoid letting your kitten near balcony edges, as they may not recognize the risk of falling.

10. Garage and Basement Chemicals
Keep your kitten away from garages, basements, and other areas where hazardous chemicals like antifreeze, paint, and pesticides may be stored. Lock these areas or use safety gates to restrict access.

11. Breakables
Put away fragile items, such as glassware or china, until your kitten has learned boundaries. She may be tempted to bat at these items, so it's better to store them safely out of reach until she's a bit older.

By taking these precautions and kitten-proofing your home, you'll help create a safe environment where your new kitten can thrive and explore without unnecessary risks.

Keeping Elderly Cats Young

Keeping Your Maturing Cat Active: Tips for Cats Aged Six to Nine

As your cat enters the later stages of life, you may notice that he spends more time lounging in cozy spots and less time chasing after toys. While it's natural for older cats to slow down, it's still important for their physical health and mental well-being to stay active. Fortunately, with some small adjustments to your cat's routine and environment, you can help him remain engaged and active.

Here are some tips to help keep your senior cat moving:

Shorter, More Frequent Play Sessions: Older cats may not have the energy for long play sessions, but they can still enjoy regular, shorter bouts of activity throughout the day. Choose toys that provide mental stimulation without demanding too much physical effort. For example, control how fast a feather toy moves or how high the laser light flies, so your cat can enjoy the excitement of the chase without straining himself.
Toys with Bells: If your cat's vision isn't as sharp as it once was, toys with bells or other sounds can help him track them more easily. The sound will guide him as he chases the toy across the floor, encouraging movement and engagement.
Catnip for Extra Fun: A little catnip can go a long way in getting your kitty active. Rub some on his favorite toy, and he'll be so delighted by the scent, he might not even realize he's exercising as he plays!
Tasty Treats for Motivation: Place your cat's favorite treats across the room or at the top of the stairs. Most cats will happily take a few extra steps if they know a tasty reward awaits them at the end!
Window Entertainment: On days when your cat isn't feeling up to active play, a bird feeder outside the window can provide hours of entertainment and mental stimulation. Watching birds from the safety of indoors can keep your cat engaged and prevent him from spending the entire day sleeping.
Provide Stairs or Ramps: If your cat loves to lounge in certain spots or sunbathe in his favorite patch of sunlight, make it easier for him to reach those places by adding stairs or ramps. This way, he can continue exploring without straining himself.

With a little extra care and attention, your senior cat can enjoy his golden years in comfort and health. You can both continue to enjoy quality time together, making the most of the years ahead!

How To Get Your Cat To Use A Scratching Post

Finding the Right Scratching Post for Your Cat

Cats have distinct preferences when it comes to scratching post textures, with options like sisal, wood, corrugated cardboard, and carpeting often being favored. For any scratching post to be truly effective, it should meet these essential criteria:

Height: The post should be tall enough for your cat to fully stretch out and scratch, allowing them to extend their body and claws.
Stability: It must be sturdy enough to withstand vigorous scratching without wobbling or tipping over.
Preferred Texture: Cats tend to favor certain textures, with sisal or rope-covered posts being the most popular choice.

Avoid flimsy door-hanger scratching boards, as they are too unstable to offer an adequate scratching experience. If your cat is scratching the carpet, they may prefer a horizontal scratching surface instead. Many affordable horizontal scratchers are available, often made from sisal or corrugated cardboard. However, avoid carpet-covered horizontal scratchers for carpet-scratching cats, as it can confuse them and make it harder to convince them not to scratch the carpet itself.

Introducing a New Scratching Post

To successfully transition your cat to a new scratching post, consider these tips:

Location: Place the post close to the area where your cat is currently scratching.
Catnip: Rub a little catnip on the post to attract your cat and encourage interest.
Deterrents: Use passive deterrents around the old scratching spot to discourage further damage. The most effective deterrent is a clear vinyl carpet runner. Place the “nubby” side up where you don’t want your cat to scratch. Cats dislike walking on these nubby surfaces, so it will naturally steer them away from the area. For furniture-scratching cats, position the runner where they typically scratch.

Another option is double-sided tape, though it tends to get covered in fur quickly and needs frequent replacement.

How to Encourage Scratching

Introducing a scratching post should be a fun and positive experience for your cat. Never force them to scratch, but you can lure them to the post using catnip or by placing a treat or toy at the top, which encourages them to use their paws. You can also lead by example—scratch the post yourself, and your cat’s curiosity will likely get the best of them!

Interactive play can also help. While playing with a toy, guide your cat towards the post and raise the toy so that they need to scratch it to get to the toy. With a little patience and positive reinforcement, your cat will quickly discover the joys of using their new scratching post!

Moving? Help Your Cat Adjust to Your New Home!

Helping Your Cat Settle Into a New Home

Moving can be one of the most stressful events in a cat's life. Cats thrive on routine and familiarity, so even small changes in their environment can cause anxiety.

Here are some steps you can take to help ease the transition and make the move as smooth as possible for your feline friend.

1. Stick to a Familiar Routine
Try to maintain your cat's regular feeding, play, and litter box schedule as much as possible during the move. Extra one-on-one playtime can help distract her from the chaos around her and reduce stress. If possible, designate a quiet room (ideally one of her favorite spots) where she can retreat while the rest of the house is being packed up and moved. Set up her food and water bowls, litter box, bed, and toys to create a safe, familiar space. You can even play calming music to mask the noise of moving furniture.

2. Keep Her Calm and Confined
It's best to keep your cat confined to this room while the move is in progress. Place her carrier in the room and make it a positive space by tossing in some treats, catnip, or her favorite toy. Leave a "DO NOT OPEN" sign on the door to prevent anyone from accidentally letting her escape. This also helps prevent her from hiding in a moving box—something that has happened to many unsuspecting pet owners!

3. Plan for the Journey
If you're moving a long distance, consider getting a larger travel carrier that can accommodate a litter box, food, and water. This will give your cat a comfortable space during the trip. Make sure she wears a collar with ID tags that include your name, cell number, and new address. This will help if she gets lost during the move or in the first month after settling in.

4. Pack Cat Essentials Separately
Pack your cat’s food, bowls, litter, treats, toys, and any medications in a separate box to travel with you. This will make it easier to set up her space in the new home and give you quick access to the supplies you'll need along the way.

5. Transitioning an Outdoor Cat
If your cat was used to spending time outdoors, the move might be a great opportunity to transition her to an indoor-only lifestyle. For more information on this transition, check out our guide on how to help your cat adjust to being indoors.

6. Create a Safe Space in Your New Home
In your new home, choose a small, quiet room to serve as your cat's temporary sanctuary. Fill it with familiar items like her bed, toys, or even a favorite piece of furniture to provide comfort and security. You can also place your own clothes or a cushion with your scent to help her feel reassured. Keep her feeding, play, and litter box routines as close to the old ones as possible.

Give her access to hidey-spots like paper bags, boxes, or her carrier, so she can retreat when feeling overwhelmed. If she hides, allow her to do so and let her adjust at her own pace. Continue offering treats, catnip, or interactive toys to encourage her to interact with you positively.

7. Gradual Exploration
Your cat will let you know when she's ready to explore beyond her safe room. She may start venturing closer to the door or try to follow you out. Let her take the lead, and have patience as she explores. Keep the door to her safe room open once she starts to explore, so she can return to her sanctuary if needed.

When she begins to explore the rest of the house, make sure all doors and windows are securely closed. Cats can get disoriented in a new home, and an escape could lead her to become lost or try to return to her old home.

8. Time and Patience
It may take some time for your cat to fully adjust to her new home. With patience and consistent routines, she’ll eventually feel more comfortable. Look for signs of her settling in, like cheek-rubbing or curling up in her favorite spots. Having familiar scents, like old furniture or sunny perches by the window, will help her feel more at home.

Above all, stay positive and show your cat plenty of love and affection throughout the process. The more reassurance and comfort you provide, the quicker she’ll settle into her new home.

Transitioning Your Outdoor Cat to Indoor Life

Transitioning an Outdoor Cat to Indoor Life

Mother Nature designed the great outdoors to fulfill a cat’s instincts—climbing trees, chasing prey, basking in the sun, and roaming freely. For cats, it's the dream life! They get to explore, hunt, and nap on their own schedule.

However, the outdoors also pose significant dangers, such as predators (both two- and four-legged), diseases, parasites, moving vehicles, and the lack of food and water. The risks can turn the so-called "good life" into a perilous one, even for the most street-smart cat.

If you’re transitioning an outdoor cat to a completely indoor lifestyle, it will require patience and an understanding of your cat’s natural instincts and desires. Your home, while comfortable for humans, isn’t always ideal for a cat's needs. Let’s look at how you can create a cat-friendly environment indoors that satisfies their instincts.

1. Climbing Trees and Heights

Cats love to climb and observe their surroundings from elevated spots. In the wild, a perch provides security and a sense of control. To replicate this indoors, invest in cat furniture that offers high platforms, hiding spots, and scratching surfaces—like cat trees, condos, or shelves. These not only satisfy climbing instincts but also provide a safe retreat for when your cat wants some peace and quiet.

2. Multiple Vertical Levels

Cats are natural jumpers, often leaping from one high spot to another in the wild. To mimic this, create multiple vertical levels in your home. Think window perches, tables by windows, cat tunnels, or cardboard boxes. You don’t need to spend a lot of money—simply rearranging your furniture or adding DIY climbing spots can make a huge difference.

3. Chasing, Hunting, and Capturing Prey

Hunting is one of the most ingrained feline instincts, and even domestic cats need an outlet for this behavior. Interactive toys, like feather wands or battery-operated "prey" toys such as the Undercover Mouse, are great for stimulating these instincts. Play sessions with you, using toys that mimic prey (like the Cat Catcher or Cat Dancer), will allow your cat to exercise its natural hunting skills. Regular, 15–20-minute play sessions will help tire your cat out physically and mentally while providing valuable bonding time.

4. Nighttime Energy

Cats transitioning to indoor life may still be active during the night, especially if they were nocturnal outdoors. To prevent nighttime disruption, try giving your cat a small portion of its dinner just before bed. A final game of chase-the-laser or hunting for hidden toys can also tire your cat out and help them settle for the night. Hiding toys in places like windowsills or under furniture can also mimic the thrill of nighttime hunting without disturbing your sleep.

5. Extras to Keep Your Cat Entertained

If your cat is missing outdoor activities, there are simple ways to bring some of that magic indoors:

Bird Feeders: Set up a bird feeder outside a window where your cat can watch the activity.
Cat Grass: Offer cat grass, which can be purchased in seed kits or pre-grown, to give your cat a taste of the outdoors.
Catnip: A few Catnip Parties per week will keep things exciting!
Sunny Spots: A cozy bed near a sunny window can give your cat the perfect place to nap and soak up some sun.

Common Challenges During the Transition

Meowing, Howling, and Scratching at the Door

If your cat insists on being outside, it’s important to address their needs first (see the above suggestions). If they continue to meow or scratch at the door, it's time for a distraction plan. Cats are creatures of habit, so try to intervene before the vocalizing begins.

If you notice your cat heading toward the door, distract them with their favorite toy or treat before they start meowing. Toss the toy or treat away from the door into a fun hiding spot (like a cardboard box or paper bag). Redirecting their attention in this way will help them associate the door with a more enjoyable experience than scratching or vocalizing.

Door Darting

This behavior is common and can be quite frustrating, especially when it’s reinforced every time your cat escapes through the door. The key to preventing door darting is to create a more enticing environment away from the door.

Before you leave or return home, call your cat to a specific spot (such as a perch or cat tree) and reward them with love and treats. While they’re distracted with the treats, you can exit or enter the house. Over time, your cat will learn that the real rewards come from staying away from the door and enjoying their special “spot.”

You can also place a tall scratching post or cat tree near the door. Lure your cat there with treats and toys, so they associate the area with positive experiences, not with darting outside.

Another passive deterrent is to place a clear vinyl carpet runner (nubby side up) in front of the door. Cats generally dislike walking on nubby surfaces, which will discourage them from getting too close.

Final Thoughts

With patience and attention to your cat’s instincts and needs, transitioning your outdoor cat to an indoor lifestyle can be a rewarding experience for both of you. Fulfilling their natural desires for climbing, hunting, and exploring within the safety of your home will help them adjust smoothly. Over time, your indoor cat will become more content and secure, enjoying the comforts and safety that come with life inside—free from the risks of the great outdoors.

The reward for you? A happy, well-adjusted cat who’s ready to curl up next to you for a lifetime of companionship and love.

Introducing Your Cat and Dog

Introducing a Cat to Your Dog

Step 1: Keep the Animals Separate

Initially, keep the new cat in a separate room with its own bed, food, and litter box.
Close the door and use a baby gate if possible, as some dogs may be able to open doors.

Step 2: Work on Basic Manners Skills with Your Dog

It's essential to have control over your dog during the introduction.
Work on skills like "Sit," "Stay," "Come," and "Down" to ensure your dog listens and remains calm.

Step 3: Create Positive Associations Between the Two Animals

Introduce your dog to the cat's scent by giving your dog the cat's blanket, and associate it with positive experiences, like feeding him near the scent.
Similarly, give your cat your dog’s blanket to help form positive associations with your dog's scent.
Begin feeding your pets on opposite sides of the door or baby gate to encourage positive associations between each other's presence and mealtime.

Step 4: Controlled Introduction

After both pets have become accustomed to each other's scent, you can begin a controlled meeting.
Keep your dog on a leash and have him either sit or lie down. Another person should bring the cat into the room.
Maintain your dog’s focus on you, preventing him from staring at or lunging at the cat.
Keep the first few meetings short (3-5 minutes) and reward both pets for calm behavior.
Be patient if either pet shows signs of fear or stress—take a step back and return to Step 3 to reinforce positive associations if needed.
Remember, introductions can take days or even months, depending on the animals’ comfort levels. A slow introduction can make a huge difference in ensuring both pets feel safe.

Step 5: Gradual Roaming for the Cat

Once your dog and cat are comfortable with each other, you can allow your cat to roam while your dog remains on a leash.
Keep the interactions short at first, and reward your dog for calm behavior.
If necessary, go back to previous steps and take things slower if either pet shows fear or aggression.

Step 6: Supervise All Interactions

Continue to supervise all interactions, keeping your dog on a leash while the cat is free-roaming.
Do not leave your cat and dog unsupervised until you are completely confident they can coexist safely.
Reward your dog for calm behavior when the cat is nearby.
It's natural for cats to give corrective behavior (e.g., swiping or hissing) if the dog gets too pushy. Allow the dog to back off in response and don’t punish the cat for these actions.

Step 7: Precautions

Dogs love cat food and cat feces, which are high in protein. Keep your cat’s food and litter box out of your dog’s reach, using baby gates or placing them in areas that are inaccessible to your dog.
If your dog is eating from the litter box, don’t punish him—just move the litter box to a safer location.
Avoid “booby-trapping” the litter box, as this could deter the cat from using it properly and create more problems.

By following these steps, you can help ensure a smooth and positive introduction between your new cat and your dog, leading to a harmonious household for everyone involved!

How To Trim A Cat's Nails

How to Trim a Cat’s Claws

There’s nothing quite like relaxing on the couch, sipping your tea, while your kitty curls up contentedly in your lap. But then, as your kitty begins to stretch, you brace yourself. “Stay calm,” you think. But, inevitably, your cat starts kneading your lap, and you wonder, “Why didn’t I trim those claws?” There’s nothing more unpleasant than those little needles digging into your legs. Since declawing is not a recommended option, adding nail trimming to your regular grooming routine is the best solution for both you and your cat. Don’t worry—it’s easier than you think!

1. Get Comfortable

Most cats feel more secure when they’re close to you, so try sitting in a comfortable position with your cat nestled against you. Support your cat with one arm, and with the other, gently hold and extend the paw. If your cat is particularly squirmy, you can try wrapping them in a towel with only one paw exposed at a time to keep them calm.

2. Proper Paw Hold

To extend your cat’s claws, hold their paw with your thumb on top and your fingers underneath. Gently press on the pad of the paw to make the claws extend naturally.

3. Trim Just the Tip

Only trim the very tip of each nail. If your cat has light-colored claws, you can easily see where the pink "quick" begins. Avoid cutting into this area, as it’s sensitive and can cause bleeding. For cats with dark nails, trim just the very end of the nail to stay safe.

4. If You Accidentally Cause Bleeding

If you do accidentally cut too far and the nail starts to bleed, don’t panic. Simply apply some styptic powder (available at pet stores) to stop the bleeding quickly.

5. Take It Slow

You don’t have to trim all your cat’s claws in one session. Start with just a few nails at a time, and take breaks if your cat gets stressed. It’s better to keep the experience positive and low-pressure than to rush through it.

6. Reward and Reinforce

After each trimming session, reward your cat with a tasty treat! This helps them associate nail trimming with something positive, making future sessions easier.

Additional Tips:

Start Young: If you have a kitten, begin trimming their nails while they’re still young. Early, positive experiences will prevent them from developing negative associations with paw handling.
Get Them Used to Paw Handling: Gently massage your cat’s paws while you’re petting them. This will help them get used to having their paws touched, making the trimming process easier over time.

If you’re unsure about trimming your cat’s nails or feel uncomfortable doing it yourself, your vet can show you the proper technique and offer advice.

Now, with your cat's claws neatly trimmed, you can go back to enjoying your cozy tea time without the fear of sharp claws digging into your legs. Take a moment to relax and savor the peace with your furry friend!

The Dangers of Declawing Cats

Why Declawing Is Not the Answer: A Guide to Keeping Your Cat’s Claws Healthy

If you have a feline companion, you're likely familiar with the joys of the special bond you share, not to mention the occasional prick of their sharp little claws. But before considering declawing as a solution, it's important to understand the risks and negative effects it can have on your beloved pet.

The Purpose of Claws in Cats

Claws are essential for cats in several ways. They help them maintain balance as they walk on their toes (unlike humans, who walk on the soles of their feet). Claws also support stretching exercises that help tone their back and shoulder muscles. Scratching serves a number of purposes, too—cats scratch to stretch, to mark their territory, and to release energy. That’s why your cat might delightfully scratch a post after a long play session or when you return home.

The Dangers of Declawing

Declawing is a painful and invasive procedure where part of the cat's toes, including the bone and claw, are amputated. To put this into perspective, it's similar to amputating a human finger at the first joint, nail and all. This procedure can cause long-term physical and behavioral issues for your cat. Common complications from declawing include:

Pain and Infection: The surgical procedure can lead to infection, inflammation, and serious complications.
Abnormal Claw Growth: Declawing can cause abnormal claw growth, which may result in additional discomfort and health problems.
Arthritis: The loss of claws can affect a cat's balance and posture, potentially leading to arthritis or other joint issues over time.
Behavioral Changes: Cats who have been declawed may become more aggressive, may bite out of fear or pain, or may even develop emotional trauma or litterbox avoidance problems.

Declawing is widely regarded as inhumane by organizations like the ASPCA and is banned in 28 countries. While it's not yet illegal in the U.S., several cities have already prohibited the practice.

Safe, Humane Alternatives to Declawing

Fortunately, there are many ways to prevent your cat from damaging furniture while still respecting their natural behaviors.

Provide Appropriate Scratching Surfaces: Cats need to scratch. Offer them a variety of approved scratching posts made from cardboard, carpet, rope, or fabric. By giving them satisfying surfaces to scratch, they’ll be less likely to target your furniture.
Regular Claw Trimming: Trimming your cat's claws every few weeks can significantly reduce damage caused by scratching.
- Tip: Make nail trimming a positive experience by offering treats as rewards, so your cat associates it with something enjoyable.
Claw Shedding: Like human nails, a cat’s claws continuously grow. Scratching helps shed the outer sheaths of the claws, keeping them sharp and healthy. As cats age, they may not wear down their claws as effectively, which is why regular trimming becomes more important as they grow older.

With some patience, proper education, and positive reinforcement, your cat can continue to scratch in a healthy, appropriate way—without damaging your furniture or suffering from the harmful effects of declawing. If you're unsure how to start, Animal Friends is here to help! Contact us at 412.847.7000 or visit our website for guidance on training your cat to scratch in the right places. Your cat—and your furniture—will thank you!

Why Is My Cat Acting Cranky?

Cats are known for their affectionate nature, so it can be surprising when a typically cuddly cat suddenly hisses or swats at you or another feline. The good news is that cranky behavior in cats is often temporary and can usually be addressed.

Common Causes of Cranky Behavior

Aggressive behavior in cats is often a result of stress. A scared cat may swat in self-defense, and territorial behavior can also trigger aggression. For example, a cat might swat to protect their favorite spot, food, or toys.

Another cause could be redirected energy. Imagine your indoor cat watching a bird outside the window. If you approach while the cat is fixated on the bird, he may lash out at you instead. To the cat, you're not the target—he's just frustrated by his inability to catch the bird.

Sometimes, crankiness can be a sign of jealousy, especially if an older cat feels displaced by a new kitten. Or, if a cat has a sore spot, he might become irritable if touched in that area—this is natural for any animal (or person!).

What Should You Do?

If your usually calm cat becomes suddenly aggressive, it’s a good idea to consult a vet. Certain medical conditions, like hyperthyroidism, can cause irritability and cranky behavior. If the vet clears your cat of medical issues, then it’s time to investigate the source of stress.

Investigate Your Cat’s Behavior

Pay attention to the circumstances leading up to the aggression. Is your cat lashing out at everyone or just one person? Is he being particularly aggressive toward a specific cat? Observe how he behaves when upset—does his tail puff up like a bottle brush, indicating fear or anxiety?

Also, consider changes in the home. Has there been a recent shift in routine? Maybe someone moved out, your work hours changed, or you rearranged furniture? Cats thrive on stability, and any alterations to their environment can cause stress.

How to Manage Aggressive Behavior

Separate the Aggressors: If one cat is picking on another, try putting a bell on the aggressor’s collar to give the other cat a warning. If they’re staring each other down and about to fight, throw a pillow or a soft object between them to interrupt the stare (never use your hands to intervene). Alternatively, you can distract both cats by waving a toy between them to redirect the aggression into play.
Time-Outs: If a fight breaks out, separate the cats into different rooms for a short time-out. If the aggression continues, keep the aggressive cat in a separate room for a few days before gradually reintroducing them using a baby gate to monitor their reaction.
Stop Play If It Gets Too Rough: If you’re playing with your cat and he nips at your hand, stop the play session and give him some space to calm down. Spending more quiet time with a cranky cat can also help soothe him. And don’t forget to close blinds or curtains to block the view of outdoor distractions like stray cats or birds.

Calming Techniques

Feliway®: This synthetic product mimics the calming pheromones that cats naturally produce. It can be sprayed on your cat’s bedding or used in a plug-in diffuser. Humans can’t smell it, but cats can, and it helps create a sense of calm.
Bach Flower Remedies®: The Rescue® Remedy, a popular flower essence, can help calm an anxious cat. Simply add a few drops to the cat's water bowl for a gentle soothing effect.

Remember, every cat is different, so what works for one might not work for another. In some cases, two cats may simply not get along and may need to be kept apart permanently. However, in many situations, if you can identify and address the source of your cat’s stress, he’ll likely return to his affectionate self.

If you’re dealing with persistent behavioral issues, Animal Friends offers resources to help. Check out our cat behavior classes in the Animal Friends University catalog, or call our Behavior Hotline at 412.847.7070 for more assistance.

Cats Need to Play Too!

The Importance of Play Therapy for Cats: Why Play is Essential for Their Well-Being

Cats need to play!

From an early age, kittens engage in play to develop their skills and learn social behaviors. When they're around three months old, they start playing with objects, using their paws and mouths to bat, carry, and wrestle with whatever they can find. This natural playtime helps them improve their motor skills and understand their environment. For wild cats, play is also a vital part of survival, as it teaches them how to hunt and capture prey.

Even though domestic cats don't need to hunt for food, play still plays a crucial role in their well-being. Through play, kittens learn their boundaries (like not biting people but feeling free to bite toys), and it provides an outlet for their boundless energy. For owners, this means that a kitten's high-energy antics can be channeled into fun and engaging activities, sparing your curtains and furniture from being turned into climbing gyms!

As cats mature, their need for constant play declines, but they still benefit from it. Play helps them maintain mental sharpness and physical fitness, keeping them agile and healthy. Interactive play with their owners strengthens the bond between humans and their feline companions. Whether it's using a favorite toy to redirect scratching behavior to a post or offering a puzzle feeder for a cat who's gained a little weight, play is an important part of a cat's life at any age.

But that's not all! Play therapy—structured, consistent interactive play—has been shown to reduce or even eliminate several common cat behavior problems. Well-executed play therapy helps shy cats gain confidence, curbs aggressive behaviors, and can even ease stressful transitions, such as moving to a new home or introducing a new family member. It can also help cats adjust to the presence of other pets in the household.

Choosing the Right Toy for Your Cat

The best toys for your cat depend on her individual preferences. Once you understand what type of prey and activities she enjoys, you can select toys accordingly. Toys for cats generally fall into three categories: comfort toys, thinking toys, and prey (or hunting) toys.

Comfort Toys: Soft stuffed animals and plush toys provide comfort and security, especially for kittens, though adult cats may enjoy them as well.
Thinking Toys: Toys like puzzle feeders challenge a cat's mind, keeping her occupied and mentally engaged. For example, toys that require a cat to figure out how to retrieve a ball from a box or a treat from a container with small holes help exercise their problem-solving skills.
Prey Toys: The most satisfying toys for cats simulate hunting. Toys that move when batted, or those that can be chased, pounced on, and carried, allow cats to tap into their natural hunting instincts. Interactive toys like laser pointers or fabric snakes are particularly engaging, especially when combined with hiding spots, tunnels, or perches.

Keeping Playtime Safe and Fun

When choosing toys, safety should always be your top priority. Avoid toys with small, loose parts that could be a choking hazard or made from toxic materials. Stringy toys or items that could potentially strangle or entrap a cat should only be used under supervision. Cats love novelty, so rotating toys and keeping some out of sight when not in use can keep them excited.

You don't always need to buy expensive toys—many cats are just as entertained by everyday items. Paper bags can be turned into tunnels, and a simple bedspread fringe can become the perfect hiding place. The key is not the price or the complexity of the toy, but how often you engage your cat in play. Consistent playtime enriches your cat's life and helps keep her happy, healthy, and emotionally balanced.

The Bottom Line: Cats Need Play!

Cats thrive on interaction, mental stimulation, and physical activity, all of which can be provided through play. Play therapy, when done regularly and appropriately, can improve your cat's behavior and deepen the bond between you and your feline friend. So get out there and play—whether with store-bought toys or creative, DIY alternatives—and enjoy the fun and fulfillment it brings to both you and your cat!

Play Therapy for Cats

Play Therapy for Your Cat

Does your cat need play therapy? While we can take the cat out of the jungle, we can’t take the jungle out of the cat! Every house cat still has a little lion inside—an instinctual predator that needs to hone its hunting skills. Playful aggression, like ambushing feet and ankles, is common but can be alarming to owners. Sometimes, aggressive play starts in kittenhood and becomes a habit as they mature into full-grown cats.

The root cause of many behavior issues is stress. These stressors can include:

Territory: Cats are highly territorial creatures, so the presence of other cats or small children can be stressful.
Routine Disruptions: Cats dislike surprises, and things like loud noises, new people, or changes in the home (like renovations or a new baby) can throw them off.
Boredom: Cats are natural hunters, and without prey to chase, they can become bored and restless. This frustration can lead to undesirable behavior.

How to Provide Play Therapy

If adding another cat to your household isn’t an option, you’ll need to be the one to provide your cat with the stimulation it craves through play therapy. Here’s how you can do that:

Set a Routine: Schedule 2-3 interactive play sessions per day. Cats thrive on routine, so aim for consistency. Figure out when your cat is most active—usually in the mornings or evenings—and time your play sessions accordingly.
Interactive Play: Use a toy that mimics prey behavior, like a feather wand or a toy on a string. Make the toy move like a mouse or a bird—darting behind objects, occasionally leaping into the air. Avoid holding the toy directly in front of your cat’s face, as it may make them feel cornered.
Allow Captures: To build confidence and prevent frustration, allow your cat to catch the prey during play. Praise them each time they make a successful capture. Positive reinforcement will help them enjoy the process.
Wear Them Out: Play until your cat is tired. When they start swatting with one weak paw or lying down, it’s a sign that they’re ready to rest. At this point, reward them with a small treat, like baby food or their favorite snack, to complete the natural cycle of hunt, catch, kill, and eat.
Put the Toy Away: After each session, put the toy away so that it’s only used during play therapy. This keeps the toy special and ensures your cat associates it with active play rather than just idle exploration.

Additional Tips:

Safety First: Make sure your cat has a variety of safe, non-toxic toys to play with when you’re not available for interactive play. Avoid toys with small parts that could be chewed off or swallowed, or long strings that could pose a choking hazard.
Rotate Toys: Cats get bored with the same toys, so rotate them every few days to keep things fresh and exciting.

By committing to regular, structured play sessions, you'll not only tire your cat out physically but also help reduce unwanted behavior by channeling that energy into positive outlets. Play therapy can make your cat more confident, less stressed, and happier overall. Plus, it’s a great way for you to bond with your furry friend!

Cats and Agility Training

Cat Agility Training: Yes, You Can Teach a Cat!

They said the earth was flat.
They said man would never walk on the moon.
They said you couldn’t train a cat.
Turns out, they were all wrong!

A new, exciting form of competition is proving just how capable cats are when it comes to learning. Cat agility is quickly becoming a popular event at cat shows across the country. In this sport, cats and their handlers navigate a series of cat-sized obstacles in a timed course. Points are deducted for missed or incomplete obstacles, and the goal is to showcase a cat’s athleticism, agility, and coordination, as well as the bond between the cat and its handler. Competitions are open to cats of all breeds and backgrounds, including pedigreed, non-pedigreed, purebred, and mixed cats who are at least eight months old. Many adoptable shelter cats also participate in agility demonstrations across the nation.

When you think about a cat’s natural curiosity, love of climbing, jumping, crawling under things, and chasing moving objects, the sport of agility seems like a perfect fit! Whether your cat competes or simply practices at home, the benefits are clear. It provides healthy exercise, mental stimulation, and an outlet for excess energy, while also offering special bonding time with you.

The majority of cat agility competitions are organized by The International Cat Agility Tournaments (ICAT), which was founded in 2003 with the motto “Play with your cat every day.” ICAT’s goal is to sanction agility competitions held by local cat clubs. On their website, you can find competition rules, training tips, and course standards at www.catagility.com.

In a typical cat agility course, a handler guides the cat through the obstacles using a teaser toy. Training usually starts with clicker training or rewarding the cat with treats, but over time, handlers discovered that many cats are more motivated by the act of running the course itself! For most cats, the best reward is the opportunity to repeat the obstacle course—sometimes they even hesitate to finish the final obstacle because they don’t want the fun to end!

Is Your Cat Ready for Agility?

Any healthy cat with a positive relationship with their handler can learn the basics of agility at home. If your cat is confident and focused, she may even be ready to try competitions! Getting started is simple: all you need are a few basic obstacles. Set up a tunnel made from boxes, a jump onto a chair, a stool for leaping, or a hula hoop to crawl through. Use a teaser toy, treats, or praise to guide your cat through each obstacle, and then combine them into a mini course.

Keep training sessions to around 10 minutes to prevent frustration and maintain your cat’s enthusiasm. With patience, fun, and a little encouragement, your cat will soon be zooming through obstacles—and you’ll be having a blast along the way.

Remember: Play with your cat every day! Whether or not you compete, the time spent together will strengthen your bond and keep both of you active and engaged. Who knows? You may just find yourself on the agility course soon enough!

Cat Enrichment Activities

Rabbit Behavior Help

Rabbits Can Be Trained Too!

Training activities are often key to building strong, positive relationships with your rabbit! Given their natural curiosity and love for hopping and exploring, it's clear how activities with your bunny can be a great way to engage and bond with your rabbit.

At Animal Friends, we’ve developed training resources for both adopted and pet rabbits, helping strengthen the connection between rabbits and their families.

Rabbit Training Classes

Enrichment Ideas for Rabbits

Rabbit Behavior Videos

How to Set Up a Rabbit Kennel at Home

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Rabbit Behaviors

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Rabbit Grooming

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Rabbit Behavior Help Tips

So You Got A Pet Rabbit, Now What?

“She was so adorable, I just couldn’t resist! Now what do I do?”

At Animal Friends, we often hear from first-time bunny owners who are feeling a little overwhelmed after bringing home their new rabbit. Even with all the research in the world, it’s normal to feel uncertain, especially if you’re new to the world of bunnies.

The first step is to ensure your rabbit has been spayed or neutered. This simple procedure can address many common behavior issues and helps ensure a calmer, happier bunny.

When setting up your rabbit's home, there are several options: a cage, an exercise pen, or allowing her to roam freely in a room. We recommend starting with a smaller, secure enclosure. A confined space will help your rabbit feel safe and give her the chance to adjust without the stress of a larger area. It also helps promote good litter box habits, as your bunny will have fewer places to go.

Think of a cage not as a prison but as a safe space for your rabbit. Rabbits are naturally curious and can easily find trouble if left unsupervised in unsafe areas. An exercise pen can also provide a safe zone while giving your rabbit room to hop, explore, and play.

While your rabbit gets accustomed to her new space, take time to get to know her. Spend time in her area, preferably on the floor so you’re at her level. Once she’s comfortable with your presence and has developed good litter habits, you can gradually increase her roaming space. Just be sure to bunny-proof the area if you give her more freedom to roam.

Now that you have the perfect bunny, you may be wondering about adding another. A bonded pair of rabbits can offer companionship, socialization, and even help keep each other entertained. Plus, adopting another bunny means you’re giving a loving home to another animal in need.

Introducing Your New Rabbit to Your Pets

For animal lovers, there’s a special kind of joy in having a multi-species household. At Animal Friends, we frequently encounter pet owners who successfully share their homes with dogs, cats, and rabbits, creating happy, harmonious families.

While it’s common for dogs and cats to coexist under one roof, introducing a rabbit into a household with both species requires extra care and attention. Experts suggest that the key to success is balancing caution with optimism when making these introductions.

Before you bring a rabbit into your home with cats or dogs, it's important to consider your pets' individual personalities. A free-roaming rabbit may not be safe around a playful kitten or an energetic puppy. Similarly, rabbits should not be introduced to dogs with a strong prey drive, especially former strays who have learned to hunt. If your dog doesn’t reliably obey commands like “down” or “stay,” it’s best to wait for a more suitable time. A calm, adult dog or cat is typically the best companion for a rabbit.

If you adopt a rabbit from Animal Friends, ask your adoption counselor about how the rabbit behaves around other animals. While we don’t expect rabbits to immediately bond with dogs or cats, we do look for a rabbit that is curious and unafraid of their presence.

Once your rabbit is home, start by keeping her in a secure hutch for the first week, allowing her to get used to her new environment while meeting your dog or cat through the cage. A rabbit that might be nervous around a dog in an open space might feel more confident when separated by bars, giving her a chance to explore safely.

If things go well, you can begin slow and supervised introductions between your rabbit and other pets. Always keep your dog leashed and under control, and ensure your cat's nails are trimmed and regularly maintained. Be sure the rabbit has access to her cage for a safe retreat at any time. During the introductions, reward all pets with treats and praise for positive behavior.

It’s normal for pets to engage in some sniffing, light paw swatting, or even the occasional half-lunge during their first meetings. However, even once everyone seems to be getting along, it’s crucial to never leave them unsupervised. If you need to leave the room or step out, always separate them with a door or barrier to ensure everyone remains safe.

Above all, remember that patience is essential. Take things one step at a time, and before you know it, you might find your entire furry family lounging together, content and peaceful.

Some may wonder, "Is it natural for dogs, cats, and rabbits to live together?" While many dogs may chase wild rabbits, the dynamic within your own home can be different. Your pets will look to you for guidance, and with careful training and supervision, they can learn to accept and even bond with each other.

With time and patience, your multi-species household can become a source of joy and occasional amusement. Not only will you be providing a loving home for your new rabbit, but you’ll also be helping to ease the burden on animal shelters by offering a second chance to animals in need.

How To Groom A Rabbit

Just like dogs and cats, regular brushing is essential for keeping your rabbit’s fur healthy. It’s also a wonderful bonding activity that both you and your bunny can enjoy together.

When you first introduce brushing to your rabbit, be patient and use positive reinforcement with praise and treats. Start by simply petting her to help her feel comfortable. Gradually introduce the brush in short sessions, allowing her to get used to it bit by bit.

Once your rabbit is accustomed to the brushing process, aim for a weekly routine. This helps remove loose fur consistently and prepares your rabbit for seasonal shedding periods, when more frequent brushing—sometimes even daily—will be necessary.

It’s important to remember that rabbits have very delicate skin, so always use a gentle hand when brushing, combing, or removing debris. For regular grooming, rubber brushes or dampened hands are ideal. During more intense shedding periods, you might need a sturdier plastic or metal comb to manage the loose fur, but always be gentle. Avoid pressing too hard, and be sure to keep a hand on your rabbit to prevent pulling the skin. We recommend against using Furminator-style brushes, as they can cause abrasions to your rabbit’s sensitive skin.

When dealing with matted fur, take extra care. Never attempt to cut out a mat unless you’re absolutely sure it’s only fur you’re cutting. Mats can sometimes trap skin underneath, making it difficult to detect. To safely remove a mat, gently work a rat-tailed comb into the fur to create a small opening, and then use your fingers to carefully pick apart the mat. It may take a few sessions to fully remove a mat, so proceed at your rabbit’s comfort level.

If you're interested in learning more about rabbit grooming, including nail trimming, ear cleaning, and scent gland care, join us for the Bunny Grooming Workshop at Animal Friends!

Rabbit Enrichment Activities

Additional Rabbit Resources

Behavior Helpline

412.847.7059

Our Behavior team works with our animal residents, owned pets and people. All of our training is accomplished through compassionate and effective positive reinforcement techniques. Our goal is to give pets and their families the tools they need to develop strong, lasting relationships.

We’re pleased to serve as a resource to pet-owning families who are in need of behavioral information, training and guidance with our free Behavior Helpline. Sometimes, behavioral challenges cannot be resolved with good advice alone. If you are located in the Pittsburgh area, our Behavior team may recommend a trainer near you. We also offer a wide variety of training classes through Animal Friends University.

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Our Behavior and Training Position Statement

Behavior Help Resources

Dog Behavior Help

Building Strong Bonds Through Dog Training

Dog Behavior Tips

Basic Skills

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Teach Your Dog to Go to Mat

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Dominance vs. Leadership in Dog Training

Clicker Training Can Help Your Pet

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So You Want a New Puppy, Now What?

Potty, Crate and Leash Training

Potty Training

Crate Training

Choosing a Leash

Common Issues

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Chewing

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The First Three Days, Weeks, and Months with Your New Dog

Multiple Animal Households

Introducing Your New Dog to Your Dog

Benefits of Having 2 Dogs

Introducing Your Dog and Cat

Using Positive Reinforcement Training to Manage a Multiple Dog Household

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